UPDATE!: We got tons of great advice in the comments (on YouTube)! The prevailing theories are:
Bad Splices/Crimmps: It's possible one of the splices was bad even though it read zero ohms because the meter uses 9v at very low amperage. If it happens again, I will test the voltage drop across the splice while under load.
Power Reset: Since the actuator is powered even when the truck is disconnected, it never completely shuts off. Cutting the power line might have reset (rebooted) any “smarts” built into the actuator.
Bad Ground: I never cut the ground wire, but the connection might be intermittent at the chassis, and moving the wires around made a good connection. I did check the chassis ground, so I don't think this is it. But, as many have mentioned, I should verify/check the ground wire first.
While traveling from Nashville to Ohio a few months ago, I noticed our brakes were light when towing our Momentum 410TH. It just felt soft and seemed like the truck was doing all of the braking. When we got to the next rest area, a test of the trailer brakes (by themselves) confirmed they were having a problem.
Typically, when the brake controller is activated manually, the truck cannot pull the RV. Not even a little bit. Now, it was able to pull it easily.
Installed with our MORryde Independent Suspension were six Kodiak disc brakes powered by a 1600PSI Hydrastar EOH (Electric Over Hydraulic) Actuator. We had the same setup on our Momentum 397TH, and it's a very powerful braking system.
At the rest area, I looked for anything obvious, like a leaky brake line, an inoperable hydraulic actuator, etc. I also checked and cleaned the 7-way connector at the truck. Everything seemed fine.
Once we made it to our destination in Ohio, I continued troubleshooting. I checked all six sets of brake pads… All good! 👍🏼
I also bled the hydraulic lines at all six brakes and got no air out of the bleed points. None. 👍🏼
The next step was to check the voltages coming from our Ford OEM brake controller. I decided to get initial readings at the hydraulic actuator (I had to cut the lines to access the wires) and work my way back to the truck if I found any issues. But I didn't. The voltages on each line were perfect:
- Black = 13.4V – This is the “power” voltage that comes from the RV DC system (which is Lithium based)
- Yellow = 0V / 12V (plunger pulled) – This is the breakaway cable and only gets voltage if the plunger is pulled from the breakaway switch.
- Blue = 6V / 12V – This is the “control” cable that will supply a variable voltage from the Ford brake controller. I was reading 6.1V with the brake pedal pressed and 12.7
With the brake system and controller system checking out, the only thing left is the hydraulic actuator. MORryde sent out a replacement, but before installing it, I wanted to check the brakes again, primarily to get better footage of the brakes NOT working. So,
But that's not what happened. The brakes worked perfectly, and I have NOT IDEA why.
The only difference in the system is the new wire splices at the actuator. So, I measured the resistance of the old splices, hoping to find some resistance primarily in the blue (control) wire. But, all wires read ZERO Ohms.
- MORryde Independent Suspension and Disc Brakes Upgrade!: youtu.be/knG7L7VTeeY…
- LED Light Bar RV Taillight Upgrade: youtu.be/Cqyiu2MBNSo…
- Fifth Wheel Hitching (and PULL TEST!): youtu.be/rP6uFmmDIWY…
- Hydrastar EOH Brake Actuator (manual): hydrastarusa.com…
- WD40 Contact Cleaner: gear.changinglanesrv.com…
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