While self quarantined during North Carolina stay-at-home orders, we continued to cross-project of the infinite list that comes with full-time RV living!
Toy Hauler Patio Weather Seal
Fir project up, is sealing the perimeter of our patio / ramp! First off, we go completely against recommendations and leave our patio down in all but the very worst rain. The patio has half up great for 2.5 years this way, but is starting to show the affects of our complete disregard for the manufacturer's recommendations. ?
Wanting to still keep our patio down al the time, it was time to find a solution to re-seal that perimeter. We chose to use Flex Seal. We simply cleaned up the area of old sealant, sanded the corroding areas, removed labels and hardware, taped it off and brushed it on. ??
While that nice clean area does show footprints, pollen, etc., it does keep the water out all the way around and is doing it's intended job nicely!
Intermittent Awning Lights
This was one of those problems that was irritating for a while. The awning lights would work then not work randomly. That rules out a fuse, and a short, which means there's an “open” in the wire somewhere. That's fancy talk for a broken wire.
The most likely areas for this broken wire are in the harness at the two pivot points – at the end of the awning arm, and the mount point on the RV. It didn't take long to find the broken wire at the awning mount by the RV.
The fix here is a splice for both positive and negative wires. While there was not a lot of slack in the wiring, there was just enough to put a fix in. I didn't have the right sized heat-shrink, so electrical tape to the rescue! Additionally, I discovered the real problem, which was a sharp corner on the awning mount. Filed that down and problem solved!
Water Pump Issues
This one was tricky. We had replaced out pump with a Remco variable speed pump in a previous video, and it was working great, but the pressure did seem a bit high. After some viewers commenting about seeing similar issues on Amazon reviews, I decided to put a pressure gauge on the line under our kitchen sink.
Sure enough, it was high at about 90PSI. Through some back and forth with Remco, we tried a Remco branded accumulator tank, bypassing the accumulator tank, and even a brand new Remco pump. All still gave us 90PSI. As a last effort, our Remco contact suggested removing the check valve from the pump output. I tried that and, boom! 65PSI!. Not one to just assume that was the fix, I put the check valve back in… Drum roll…. 65PSI! Weird!
To this day, the check valve is still in and we're seeing 65PSI. We ran off our fresh tank for a full month and it stayed at 65PSI. Neither we, nor Remco, have any idea why this is the case. That said, the pump has been great! So much better than the stock pump that came with the RV!
If you decide to take a chance on using this pump and feel the pressure seems high, you might want to install a gauge and try removing the check valve to see if it helps. Then, maybe put it back in! We'd love to hear from you if you've installed this pump to see what your experience has been.
DC Wiring Upgrade
Last, but not least, are some upgrades to our DC Wiring! You might have seen along our journeys, that we upgraded from a 2000W Inverter to 3000W (same model – GoPower).
When we did this upgrade, I calculated the amperage draw for 3000W @ 12VDC (250A), and determined that our 300A rated DC wiring would be up to the task. Well.. yes.. and no.
Both models of the inverter are rated to surge above their rated wattage for brief periods of time. If interested in those ratings you can find them in the manual here (page 48). Long story short, the 3000W inverter can easily surge to 400A for 5 seconds by design. This is what was happening when our AC would kick on, quickly blowing the 300A fuse.
So, back to making cables I go! All cabling, switches, and the fuse were upgraded to 400A rating and we've had no issues since. However, we did learn our lesson and keep spare 400A fuses on hand. ??
I should note here that the 4/0 wiring was not completely necessary since the 300A rated 2/0 wiring could have handled the higher amperage over short durations. But, I prefer to over-engineer versus “just enough”. A 400A fuse would have likely sufficed, but I feel a lot better with the whole circuit being rated at 400A continuous current. Also, if starting this project from scratch the price difference between 2/0 and 4/0 in the overall scope of the project is negligible.
✅ Flex Seal Liquid Rubber – amzn.to/2MYjcgk
✅ Goof Off Professional Strength – amzn.to/3cUFOJq
✅ Ring Alarm System – amzn.to/3hrK8TX
✅ Awning Drop Shade – changinglanesrv.com/faq/?Display_FAQ=2163
✅ Blackstone Griddle (and other RV Living) – amzn.to/30GRpZW
✅ SharkBite Brass Push-to-Connect Pressure Gauge, 1/2″ – amzn.to/2MYHVBe
✅ Remco (55-AQUAJET ARV) Aquajet Rv Series Water Pump – amzn.to/37tU6iY
✅ Sharkbite PEX Straight Shut Off Valve for Faucet or Toilet (1/2-Inch) – amzn.to/30FApmZ
✅ Black Single SPST On-Off Switch with Bezel – amzn.to/2UEqyKk
Inverter Project Items
✅ Go Power! GP-IC3000-12 Pure Sine Wave Inverter – amzn.to/3dK5g5B
✅ Go Power GP-ICR-50 Inverter Charger Remote – amzn.to/3h4p9Gx
✅ Go Power! FBL-400 Class T 400 Amp Fuse with Block – amzn.to/379IyRW
✅ Spare 400A Class T Fuse – amzn.to/2zfsfqf
✅ BEP Marinco Power On/Off Battery Switch – amzn.to/3cGa1ff
✅ 4/0 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable – amzn.to/30L2OIm
✅ UL Listed Heavy Duty Copper Terminal Connectors – amzn.to/2YsdNDZ
✅ Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Heat Shrink – amzn.to/2xkhBdk
✅ TMS 16 Ton Hydraulic Lug Terminal Crimper – amzn.to/2Nn4pi3
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